Exploring the Cardigan Subpeaks

Taking in Mt. Cardigan a different way

Mount Cardigan gets a lot of love, as well it should, for the dramatic views from its bare, windy summit. I hadn't been up that way in a couple years, and with the nice forecast for Saturday, I decided to return. When I arrived at the parking area on the west side of the mountain it was packed as I expected, with cars streaming down the road into every nook and cranny to create a spot. When I got out of my car and realized just how crowded it was, with several large groups getting ready to head up, I decided to change my route for the day, skip the big draw of Cardigan's summit, and make a loop to check out three of its subpeaks instead: Rimrock, Orange Mountain (Gilman Mountain), and the South Peak. This plan ended up giving me exactly what I wanted, a longer day on the trails, and dramatic views all to myself from three peaks that I argue rival the draw of Cardigan itself.

The 6-mile loop I created for myself involved 6 trails all around Cardigan, so rather than trying to write it out in as thorough a story form as possible, I'm going to break this hike down by trail and summit, bullet pointing the highlights of each section; so, without further ado, let me begin where I...um...began:

West Ridge Trail (orange blazes, 0.5 mi, 14 min.)

• A moderate half mile climb to to junction with the South Ridge Trail
• Trail was still soggy most of the way from the rains on Wednesday and Thursday, with long stretches of mud, some standing water, small puddles, and slick leaves, but no deep sections of mud cake to sink into

Up to Rimrock

South Ridge Trail (orange blazes, 0.7 mi., 33 min.)

•  The first short portion up onto the South Ridge trail was tough to follow, but after finding a set of rocks looking like stairs, the first blazes appeared and it was smooth sailing from there.
• Started as a moderate climb for the majority of the 0.7 miles to the Rimrock summit
• Longer stretches of wet leaves, standing water, and mushy footing here as compared to the West Ridge Trail
• A steep, slick, rocky switchback section requiring extra care with my footing led to the final drier ridge walk to the Rimrock summit

Panoramic view from Rimrock summit

Trail junction sign on summit. Mount Gilman is the direction for Orange Mtn (same peak)

Scenic view of Orange Mountain (dark hump furthest left) as the descent began over the ridge in the foreground

Skyland Trail (Rimrock to Orange Mtn., white blazes, 1.1 mi., 44 min.)

• Unlike sections of this trail further south, this portion between Rimrock and Orange Mountain was well-blazed and the foot path was easy to see and follow the whole way.
• Dramatic, scenic, steep descent to start over more smooth ridges (would have been treacherous if they were still wet from the rains, but thankfully this section was dry) with a view of Orange Mountain in the foreground 
• Trail then dipped into a long forested col, with softer, easier footing and electric green moss bordering both sides of the trail
• From the col it was a moderate short climb up to the ledges of Orange Mountain, with the views of Mount Cardigan getting progressively better until my favorite spot of the trip, a large open ledge just below the summit with 180º views stretching from Cardigan to Newfound Lake

Typical forest floor along much of the Skyland Trail

Looking back at first peek of Cardigan summit heading up to Orange Mountain ledges

Panoramic view from large ledge just below the summit of Orange Mountain

Vistamont Trail (yellow blazes, 1.0 mi., 43 min.)

• Another descent down a smooth rocky ridge to start. However, this one was still wet from the rains the previous few days, making the footing iffy in spots
• Once in the forest again and below the conifers, the footing became even slipperier as the trail was completely covered in wet fallen leaves. Luckily, I could still make out the path along the forest floor and the trees were well blazed all the way down as well. Slipping every couple steps on a pile of leaves, however, was not the most enjoyable part of the hike.

Trail sign at the top of the Vistamont Trail

View from one of the ridges while descending the Vistamont Trail

A thick blanket of leaves covering the Vistamont Trail

An unnamed brook in full force that I crossed shortly before reaching the Clark Trail junction

Trail sign at Clark Trail junction. It was straight ahead from the viewpoint of this photo to head up the Clark Trail

Clark Trail (yellow blazes, 0.7 mi., 27 min.)

• Nothing on the trail junction sign noted I had met up with the Clark Trail, but I knew from my map that it was 0.7 miles from the Grand Junction noted on the sign; so I knew it was the correct spot to turn back uphill
• This section of the trail was still covered in leaves, but much drier as it was being hit by the sun the whole way up, making for a much easier ascent compared to the slipping and sliding down the Vistamont Trail.
• The trail did become wetter and muddier as it neared PJ's Ledge.
• Trail was well blazed and signed up to PJ's Ledge, where I then took a left to go onto the Hurricane Gap Trail.

View from PJ's Ledge

Hurricane Gap Trail  (0.4 min. to South Peak, 15 min.)

• 1st half of this trail just past the AMC High Cabin was some of the wettest of the day, with large slippery rocks, large puddles, and small streams running on the trail
• After about halfway the trail turned to much drier footing on a soft forest floor with more rich green moss bordering the edges like the Skyland Trail until it met up with the South Ridge Trail

AMC High Cabin along the Hurricane Gap Trail

South Ridge Trail to South Peak

• A short climb up a dry rocky ridge to the best view of the approaches to the Cardigan summit and the firetower (and loads of people) at the top

View of Mount Cardigan from South Peak cairn

Panoramic view to the southeast from the South Peak. Orange Mountain is at center, with Rimrock at the right edge.

From South Peak it was another descent along a rocky ridge back down to Rimrock where I decided to take the Skyland Trail over to its junction with the West Ridge Trail for my descent, rather than trying to navigate the wet, rocky switchbacks of the South Ridge Trail I had gone up in the morning. The first half mile of my descent down this portion of the West Ridge Trail was particularly damp, muddy, slippery on its rockier stretches.

As I said at the start, I got to enjoy the views from these three peaks all to myself, as I saw dozens and dozens of folks heading up to the main Cardigan summit while resting at each peak. The loop I took was an enjoyable challenge, climbing and descending multiple peaks in a day while traversing rocky ridges and rich forest floors. It really couldn't have ended up being a much better day out on the trails, and I highly recommend this loop to anyone wanting to experience the Mount Cardigan area in a little different way.

Get out there and explore!

Kidder Mountain: A Fantastic Wapack Trail Side Trip

Spur of the moment, into the woods we went

I didn't plan on hiking anywhere yesterday after having gone up Kearsarge with my wife and pup the day before for some fantastic late afternoon views. However, as I was outside in the morning cleaning out our cars, looking at the magnificent clouds in the sky matched against the fall colors with the unseasonably warm temperatures making it all feel just perfect, I knew it was too nice a day not to go hiking; so I settled in front of my computer after eating lunch the find a hike quick enough to fit into a spur of the moment afternoon trip. Eventually, I ended up at one of my favorite trails in southern New Hampshire, the Wapack Trail. Looking for a section of it I hadn't tackled yet, I found the spur trail off of it up to Kidder Mountain. At 3 miles round-trip, I knew I could fit it into the afternoon, so off my pup and I went!

I decided to start from the parking area for the Wapack Trail off of NH-123/124. However, as I quickly learned after arriving, there are two parking areas for this section of the trail. The first one I stopped at was directly across from the Windblown XC Skiing sign along the highway. When I pulled in I saw a couple other cars there, so I figured I was in the right place...except for the fact that I didn't see a trail or signage anywhere in the parking area. After looking a little harder, I found what looked like a small footpath at the back of the parking area, so we headed up that way into the woods. We quickly turned around, however, when I didn't notice any of the traditional yellow triangle blazes (the Wapack Trail has always been very well blazed in every other portion I've hiked) and the "path" I had first followed dissolved into nothing but overgrowth.

The correct parking area off of Old Rindge Rd.

Back in the parking area, the other folks who had parked there happened to have come back from their hike, and they informed me that the correct parking area/trail start was back down the highway directly off of Old Rindge Rd; so we walked out of the parking area we were at, turned left and started walking south down NH-123/124 until I saw the street sign for Old Rindge Rd. and, lo and behold, another parking area complete with yellow traingle blazes and a Wapack Trail sign. From there, we were on our way!

The yellow triangle blazes of the Wapack Trail

This hike kept us on the Wapack Trail for just over half a mile, with much of it just being a gentle meander through some gorgeous autumn woods. The trail was well-blazed as I expected, and very dry from having no rain in quite some time. A brief portion of the trail opened up into to what seemed like someone's backyard, but was back in the woods after some quick elevation gain up a short rocky stretch.

Turn LEFT here

At about a half mile, there was a T-junction, with a sign denoting a left turn to stay on the Wapack Trail, and nothing noting what a turn right meant. I knew from my quick research beforehand that we had a right turn around this area to go up the Kidder Mountain Trail, so we took this one...only to be wrong again! Thankfully I'd read we should have hit the power lines quickly, and once we didn't I knew this turn was a wrong one. Therefore, we backtracked, got back on the Wapack Trail, and shortly thereafter ran right into the power lines with a clear sign marking our right turn to head towards Kidder Mountain.

Kidder Mountain trail sign on the gravel road

Similar to the Wapack Trail blazes, Kidder Mountain blazes are blue triangles

From here, there was no more confusion from the signage and blazes and the path to the summit of Kidder was well-marked. It was a quick walk along the gravel road running alongside the power lines before another sign directed us to cross back into the woods. Once in the forest, the trail was much like the Wapack section had been, adding in several elevation gains I would call the easy side of moderate. The footing changed from a forest floor of pine needles, fallen leaves, and dirt to a rockier path as the trail climbed to small ridge for a good stretch. After a couple more easy climbs, including walking by what looked like some very fancy bird baths–especially for how far into the hike we were!–we arrived at the open directional views of the Kidder summit.

Interesting "bird baths" along the way

The summit was dominated by a long, low stone wall that almost sliced the mountain in half. There were several cairns all along this area that led up to a small one at what was the high point of the summit as far as we could tell. There were a couple smaller side trails that led into the woods at the top, but none of them led to anywhere in particular as far as I could tell. I had seen photos of people next to a summit sign for Kidder, but I missed it or didn't run into while I was there.

Fantastic views from the summit

The view from Kidder was fantastic, especially for such a small peak. Most all of southern New Hampshire stretched out in view. I had read that on a clear day folks have claimed to have seen the Boston skyline from the summit, but with a bit of haze on the distant horizon, I couldn't verify the claims. It didn't matter though, as the views of the nearby peaks set again the unbelievable sky were plenty enough for me.

Enjoying a cairn's-eye view

 For a last minute trip, Kidder very much exceeded my expectations. It was an easy hike that I thoroughly enjoyed with a huge payoff of a view at the end making the whole trip worthwhile. Knowing all the corrections now, I'm guessing I'll enjoy it even more the next time I get around to visiting. I can't recommend the Wapack Trail enough, as this hike made that path that much better. If you haven't gotten around to checking this mountain out I highly recommend it. It is a great bang-for-your-buck hike.

Peaked Hill Pond: A Hidden Gem in the Whites

Small on crowds, big on serenity

On the last day of our anniversary trip in the Whites, my wife and I decided to do a hike that was on the road literally right next to where we staying at the Valley Brook Cottages in Thornton: Peaked Hill Pond. This little known trail is usually looked over by everyone skimming a map of the White Mountains, as it is out of the way of all the other main hiking areas in the notches. However, as we learned after our hike, if you happen to be in the area, this is one that's well worth the trip.

The trailhead was at the end of the aptly named Peaked Hill Pond Road. Since we were in an AWD SUV we were able to drive all the way to the metal gate that marks the start of the trail and park on the left-hand side. There was a parking area a little before where we parked for cars that can't handle the sandy, rough road at the end. It only adds a short bit to the hike and no real elevation gain at all.

From the gate we there were two paths to take, but thanks to the White Mountain Guide we knew to take the larger, more eroded/collapsed road on the left into the woods. This was the only part of the trail where we had to double check our heading, as the rest of the turns along the way were well marked, either by signs clearly stating "Peaked Hill Pond" with an arrow pointing onward or with diamond-shaped yellow signs with large arrows sending us the right way.

The trail was wide, dry and leaf covered the whole way. Aside from a couple stretches of elevation gain tending to the easy side of moderate, this trail was more of a walk in the woods than a hike. It was mostly flat with good footing the whole way to the pond.

Unnamed waterfall below the trail

After passing the first "Peaked Hill Pond" sign with an arrow, we heard the roar of a brook in the gorge-like area of the forest below us off to our right. Through the trees, we could see what looked like a pretty sizeable waterfall, so we ventured off trail, tumbled down into the rougher stuff, and came upon a magical cascade. There were two side-by-side that looked to be 15-20 ft. tall, making for an awesome off trail discovery. We were even more surprised to not see this waterfall listed in our insanely thorough New England Waterfalls book when we got home. It made us feel like grand explorers, discovering such a spot, haha!

As "Fall in New England" as fall in New England can get

We arrived at the pond to find a serene view of Peaked Hill over its namesake pond. The pond was still, peaceful, and quiet. The hill was at peak autumn color, and with a rich blue sky full of white puffy clouds behind it, it made for a quintessential New England setting. We were actually surprised to see two canoes on the shores when we arrived, which I found later are possibly used by adventure groups that make regular trips out to the pond. Other than that, it was a wonderful natural setting

If you are ever in the Thornton area, or want to find a trip to add on to other adventures to and from the Whites, I highly recommend this hike. It's a simple stroll that'll take you to a place where you can feel miles away from everything else. I can definitely see this being an add-on hike to one of my trips in the future.

Fall in Full Force on Hedgehog Mountain

Greetings from Hedgehog Mountain!

My wife and I had our 5th wedding anniversary this past weekend, and for this year we decided to celebrate it by checking out the fall colors in the White Mountains. After living in New Hampshire for four years, we had yet to even take a hike up there yet during this season, given all we'd heard about how the traffic and crowds could get. Either way, we decided to brave the buses and packed parking areas and set off on a few hikes.

We got up to the mountains Thursday night, giving ourselves a three-day weekend to enjoy as much of the fall colors as we could. Since we knew the crowds would be thin on Friday, we decided to drive down the Kancamagus Highway to hike Hedgehog Mountain. It was listed as one of the best day hikes in two of our guidebooks (Hiking the White Mountains and AMC's Best Day Hikes in the White Mountains), so we thought it was great trip to combine a scenic drive and nice hike. I mean, how can you go wrong with a mountain named Hedgehog!?

When we arrived at the parking area around 12:30 p.m. it was about 75% full. The parking area for Hedgehog Mountain also serves as the start of the trail up Mt. Potash and the Downes Brook Trail, so that didn't surprise us. We passed maybe 5 or 6 groups during our whole hike, which made us think the cars were split pretty evenly among the main hikes of Hedgehog and Potash.

The start up the UNH trail was wide, flat, and easy, a gentle stroll in the autumn woods. After 0.2 miles, I had to double check our White Mountain Guide to make sure we continued the right direction, as the signage at this juncture as to what was the cross-country ski trail and what was the hiking trail was little confusing. A quick read reassured us to turn right and we were on our way. From here, the rest of the junctions were clearly marked to make the loop around the UNH Trail easy to follow.

After 0.8 miles, we arrived at the loop junction and decided to follow it clockwise as was recommended by all three books we'd referenced. From here, we finally started to gain elevation at a steady, moderate clip over your traditional New Hampshire rooted, rocky trails. The colors of fall were in full force, with vivid yellows, oranges, and reds in the leaves on the trees and on the ground. There were a few short steep pitches mixed in along the way to really get our lungs and legs going as we headed toward the first views of the day.

Fall in full panoramic splendor from the east ledges

My wife taking in the view from the ledges

Stepping out onto the first ledges on the east side of the mountain, we were overjoyed with the foliage and peaks stretching out before us. The deep reds and oranges of the trees losing their leaves were in stark contrast to the rich dark greens of the conifers holding strong in the higher elevation, creating quite the colorful landscape. By our recollection, these ledges had the best views of the day, and would be worth a trip all to themselves. However, with the full loop in mind, we continued onward for the summit.

Headed into the forest to reach the summit seen at center

From the east ledges it was quick drop back into the forest, followed by a steep climb up some rocky switchbacks to the high point of the mountain. We were thankful for very dry trail conditions, as a day of rain beforehand would have made some of these steep, smooth rocks very difficult to manage.

View near the summit

The view from the summit was basically a different perspective of our first views of the day on the ledges below, along with some views out to the west. We stayed there for a while to eat a late lunch before heading down to complete the loop. The descent off the summit was almost as steep and rough as the climb we'd just done, but more rooted and worn as opposed to smooth and rocky.

View from Allen's Ledge

Just before completing the loop we made the quick side trip to Allen's Ledge. This side trail was clearly marked with a sign, and it was a quick (read steep and rooted) climb to the viewpoint. More fall colors stretched out before us here making both sides of the loop worth the journey.

Hedgehog Mountain was as awesome as a mountain with such a name should be. It mixed in great views with a good variety of hiking over roots and rocks with varying levels of elevation gain to make for a well-rounded hike. As mentioned before, the highlight of the trip was definitely the first set of ledges. I could definitely see taking a hike just to that point and back when you want a quicker trip in the area. Overall, it was a great start to a fall weekend in the Whites.

Adventures in the Lakes Region: Five Finger Point & West Rattlesnake

Greetings from Five Finger Point!

Yesterday I decided to check out some of the lesser used trails around one of the best "bang-for-your-buck" spots in all of New Hampshire, West Rattlesnake Mountain. This 1260 ft. summit is small and stature but huge in views (photos further down), and it is most commonly reached by way of the very easy 0.9-mile Old Bridle Path, a trail that I've referred to as walking up a very gradual ramp. However, my main destination in this area on Saturday was not that summit, but instead the loop trail around Five Finger Point, an area I would discover was a wonderful forest walk along the shores of Squam Lake.

My pup and I started from the Col Trailhead, which is about 6.5 miles from the junction of US-3/NH-25 and NH-113 in Holderness. This trailhead isn't actually marked at all, but it is a woods road a little ways past the large parking area for the Old Bridle Path. Coming from Holderness, it is just before a sign noting the Allen Preserve, and there is room for about 3 cars on the right hand side after you pull into the road.

Start of the Col Trail

From the parking area, we walked around a chain "gate" blocking access for cars to go further down and started down the woods road on foot. It began as wide and easy as the parking area, and was well blazed by a combination of faded yellow marks (the old trail blazes) and newer blue diamonds nailed into trees along the way. After about a quarter-mile, a yellow arrow above a blue diamond noted the clear left turn off the woods road onto a more traditional hiking trail. At this turn, the Col Trail was very thin and slightly overgrown, but this section was short lived and was the only portion of the trail that was in any sort of rough shape.

After the turn into the woods it was a moderate climb around a bog area, where I noticed one sizeable beaver dam, up to the junction with the Ridge Trail. Along the way the trail had pretty good soft footing with only a couple heavily rocky sections along the way. The forest was pretty wide open in this section and allowed views deep into the trees, although we didn't spot any big rambling creatures.

From the junction with the Ridge Trail we took the quick right followed by the quick left (all well noted by trail signs) to continue down the Col Trail, and I mean DOWN. From the junction it was a quick, steep drop down to the Five Finger Point area, heading down off the mountains and closer to the shoreline. Thankfully the footing was soft the whole way down, but I did have to take care to not slip on the pine needles blanketing the ground. Once at the junction with the Pasture Trail, there were once again several trail signs making easy to make sure we stayed headed in the right direction to the Five Finger Point loop.

Trail signs making it easy to stay on track

A left turn just after the Pasture Trail and we were headed out towards Five Finger Point, with this stretch of trail being a pretty rough mix of rocks, roots, and soil. We were hiking right along the edges East Rattlesnake Mountain, looking down at what would be a fun tumble through the woods on our right. Finally we arrived at a large sign denoting the start of the Five Finger loop and began the trek around the shore in a counterclockwise direction.

First view along Five Finger loop

We came upon our first view quickly, just teasing the expanse of Squam Lake as we continued on to the main outlooks further along the trail. The loop had very nice, gentle footing for almost the entirety of the trip. The forest out there was simply magical and felt miles away from any civilization, even as we saw lake houses from the outlooks. Something about the sound of the loons calling to each other and owls hooting in the distance made me feel like it was just me, my pup, and the forest, a real connection with the nature around us.

Tip of the main outlook along the loop

Natural Area Sign at main outlook

The main outlook came about halfway around the loop, where a sign denoted the Five Finger Natural Area as a long stretch of rocky shoreline that slid into some of the clearest lake water I've seen. While my pup took a dip in the lake, I enjoyed the expansive view of Squam Lake stretching out in all directions in front of me. Aside from the group guys chatting among themselves when we arrived, this was one of the most peaceful spots along the lake.

Interesting fungus along the way

We continued from there to finish the loop, taking in a couple sandy outlooks as we walked by on the trail. Once back at the beginning, we headed back towards the Pasture Trail junction, where my pup and I decided to add on to our trip by checking out that way up to West Rattlesnake, a summit we'd been to several times before.

Trail junction post denoting the Pasture Trail

We quickly learned that this decision was a steep and slow one, as the Pasture Trail never let up in elevation gain until we came upon the cliffs at the summit. Thankfully, as with most of the trail, the footing was soft and forgiving, and we didn't really have to navigate any rocky or root-covered climbs.

As usual, the view from West Rattlesnake was beautiful as always, with a view over Squam Lake that just can't be beat. Even on this cloudy, cool day, I was shocked we only saw a couple other families the entire time we were up there.

One of the few families we saw briefly taking in the view

And what a beautiful view it is

After a little less than an hour on the summit, we took the Ridge Trail down to meet up with the Col Trail we started on. It was a quick steep descent, although not as sharp an elevation drop as the gain we had up the Pasture Trail. Once we met up with the Col Trail, it was an easy stroll out to our car, taking in some of the colors of sunset in the clouds as we came around the bog near the woods road as we wrapped things up.

I would definitely recommend a visit to Five Finger Point if you want great views of Squam Lake with less crowds than on West Rattlesnake. It's also a great option when you want to get out in the woods for a little while, but you don't feel like climbing a mountain. As I said at the start, this area is home to some of the best "bang-for-your-buck" hiking in the state, and I can now say that that mantra extends beyond the summit of West Rattlesnake to the trails all around it.

For anyone wanting to get out and explore this area, the New Hampshire Division of Forest and lands has a great trail map in this pamphlet from their site. It's the one I used to plan our route!

Here is the time breakdown from our hike:

• Start at Col Trailhead - 2:28 p.m.
• Ridge Trail Jct. - 2:50 p.m.
• Pasture Trail Jct. - 3:10 p.m.
• Start of Five Finger Loop - 3:25 p.m.
• Finished Five Finger Loop - 4:18 p.m.
• Back at Pasture Trail Jct. - 4:33 p.m.
• West Rattlesnake Summit - 4:45 p.m.
• Departed Rattlesnake Summit via Ridge Trail - 5:38 p.m.
• Back at Col Trailhead - 6:05 p.m.